French Lick restored

Friday, November 13, 2009

Well, I was wrong.  The two-hour tour of Columbus's famous architecture today did not enlighten me.  The docent was so unfocused that I think I actually lost information.  It's hard to be a responsible tourist when the guide can't tell left from right, 19th century from 20th century, and has to ask the bus driver to help her out.  Sigh.

She was so ditzy that she didn't even mention that the Sycamore Place housing unit was designed by Jacob Alpeter of Gwathmey Siegel. 

It wasn't until I went back on my own to find it to take a shot of it from my son Greg who used to work for Gwathmey Siegel that I realized who had designed it.  It was that kind of tour.

I did learn that Columbus is ranked the 6th most important architectural city in America, behind NYC, Chicago, SF, WDC and another (?).  Six of the buildings there have been designated as National Historic Monuments.  Kevin Roche, who inherited a lot of the current building commissions after Eero Saarinen's death, is well represented in town.  Harry Weese, another Eliel Saarinen disciple, designed the most buildings.  I didn't know his name but became impressed once I learned that he was the architect of the WDS Metro stations.

Were a person to visit Columbus for the architectural sights, I'd recommend stopping in at the Visitors Bureau, picking up their free and well designed map, and just driving around on one's own.  The tour this morning mostly just gave me a headache.  I learned a lot more on my own yesteday.

After lambasting road food in earlier posts, I feel compelled to report that there are some excellent restaurants out here.  Proof, the 21C Hotel restaurant, is simply super.  I had three delicious dinners there.  Louisville has other good restaurants, including Mayan Cafe and Jack Fry's (where I ate lunch twice).  Last night I had a very tasty dinner at Smith Row in Columbus.  And today on the road I stumbled across a good Chinese restaurant.  So it's not all franchises.  But you've got to be patient, and it helps if someone reliable gives you advice.

I took back roads from Columbus to French Lick, where I'm now ensconced at the famous old resort that's been lavishly renovated.  I was last here in the summer of 1964.  The wide verandah with its rocking chairs is still inviting.  Tomorrow I'm taking a day off of sightseeing to indulge in some spa treatments.  One can get grungy on the road.