Saturday, October 31, 2009

Recalculating...



October 31, 2009

Victory!  The GPS works.  Never another word about it except to say it's a huge relief to be guided by a gadget that works.

The Rock 'n Roll Museum is an A plus (why doesn't the plus sign work on my keyboard?).  Beautifully situated on Lake Erie, the museum is enormously fun for people of all ages.  I even started to fall in love with Elvis yet again.  There were women there older (and fatter) than me who were rocking it up in memory of their childhoods.  In addition to paying homage to the rock 'n roll greats, there's a lot of stuff on music censorship.  Remember Tipper Gore's mid-1980's campaign against musical lyrics?  I'd forgotten.

If you're about to go to Cleveland, be sure to have lunch at Tommy's on Coventry Road.  It's the kind of place that attracts huge crowds, like Lucky Platter in Evaston or Baba Louie's all summer in GB.  Incredible falafel and one of the best milk shakes of my life.

University Circle in Cleveland, where I'm staying, is elegant, academic, and artistic.  I haven't explored a lot of Cleveland, but it does seem to be a major medical center with miles of hospitals, clinics, and so forth.

Happy Halloween and sad end to Daylight Savings.

Friday, October 30, 2009


October 30, 2009


It’s a bit cloudy and a bit sunny but definitely warm here in Cleveland today, where I had lunch with Peter Cherneff’s childhood friend Jane Glaubinger, curator of prints at the Cleveland Art Museum. She’s a lovely lady who’s leaving for NYC tomorrow, partly for a 45-year high school reunion (which Peter isn’t attending) and partly for work-related matters. Jane did her graduate work in art history at Case Western Reserve, started working at the Cleveland Art Museum and has never left. She’s smart, welcoming, and we had a fun lunch. Thanks, Peter.

Jane walked me over to the museum, where she went back to work and I toured the 19th and 20th century galleries. The museum has been undergoing extensive renovations for the last few years, and will continue to do so for another three or four years. The original building is one of those massive early 20th century Beaux Arts structures, with a 1960’s Marcel Breuer addition. This renovation involves two modern links connecting the two older buildings.

Jane pointed out a Frank Gehry building across the street from Glidden House, where I’m staying, on the Case Western Reserve campus. It’s interesting but seems way too large for its setting.

This afternoon I had high hopes of visiting Tremont, a newly regentrified neighborhood that gets a lot of press. But the dreaded Garmin interfered by not working, sending me into paroxysms of frustration. I spent a long time on hold with the Garmin people, and don’t think they began to answer my questions. I’m upset enough about getting hopelessly lost without good direction that I thought about coming home early, but then decided not to be a wuss about it. Stay tuned.

The concierge here at the Glidden House is an actor with the Wake Up and Lives theatre company. I know this because when I asked him if there was a DVD player in house, he wondered why I needed one. So I showed him the DVD of “Rock the Boat” that Bobby Houston gave me. James McGilbray, the actor-concierge, was very interested in the story of the DVD, and told me to tell Bobby that he’d be happy to interview him on his radio show if Bobby comes to Cleveland. Imagine that.

The DVD doesn’t work in my computer, or maybe it does but I don’t know how to do it. Like the damned Garmin. I think I’m a threat to anything electronic. And the stock market had a hissy fit today.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Butler Institute of American Art in Youngstown, Ohio

October 29, 2009

Day Two of the Adventure started out with much hope for the theoretically repaired GPS, but within half a block of the Wilson's I realized it still wasn't working.  Luckily I was only about a half mile from a Target, where I bought a new GPS, a thoroughly unanticipated and not happily made purchase.  Tonight I have to figure out how to use it, a project I'm dreading.

You probably didn't know, as I hadn't until Tuesday, that the Butler Institute of American Art in Youngstown, Ohio was established in 1919 as the first museum dedicated to American art.  And it's a beautiful gem of a museum.  There's the usual early American, Western art, mid- to late-19th century art, and a tour de force of 20th century work.  My favorite piece Raphael Soyer's "My Friends," painted in 1948 and donated to the museum in 1963.  His brother Moses Soyer is featured in the painting, and Raphael's back is to us ont he right.  Why my favorite?  My grandson Soyer is named for him, and seeing the artist's name gave me a thrill.  Unfortunately the gift shop doesn't carry a post card of the painting. 

A "super realist" sculptor, Marc Sijan, has a large show up there and it's fascinating.  Very lifelike figures, many humorous, and a few kinda scary in their real-ness.

I wouldn't recommend going to Youngstown just to visit the museum, but if you're in the vicinity, it's a lovely spot in an otherwise rather dismal city.  I was reading up on the settlement of Youngstown, sittuated in an area of vast natural resources.  Unfortunately, the only way to profit from those resources was extraction, and now the city is poor and much-diminished.  Gives me pause about what it must be like in West Virginia.

I did't have printed directions to Cleveland, but decided just to follow road signs to get there.  I called the Glidden House, where I'm staying, to make sure they had a room for tonight, which they did.  Despite numerous phone calls to the Inn, and the help of various and sundry police officers, it took me well over an hour to find the place.  Which means now I have to learn how to use the new GPS.  Ugh.

Selinsgrove PA



October 28, 2009

Day One of the Adventure ended in Selinsgrove PA at my friends' Dave and Joanne Wilson's home.  The drive from Monterey to Selinsgrove was Very Stormy.  Little visiblity and much anxiety.  All part of the adventure, I reminded myself.  Along the way I fell hard for NPR, which I get on satellite radio.  What a great way to pass the time!

As the pix above shows, Dave and Joanne and I were joined by our friend John Mathias for dinner at Elizabeth's, a long-time favorite restaurant in Lewisburg.  John's wife Sue was out in Seattle babysitting 4-year old Bobby and 18-month old Margaret.  We missed her.

Joanne and Dave have been members of the Susquehanna Valley Chorale and Orchestra for the last six-seven years.  Their latest appearace was October 9 when they performed in the premier of "A Monument to Memory,"music based on stories of Alzheimer's victims and their families.  The Wilsons said the first time the chorale went through the piece, everyone broke down in tears.  I wish I'd heard it.

John Mathias, a longtime entrepreneur and do-gooder in Lewisburg, is now one of three Union County (PA) commissioners, a job he's enjoying enormously.  It was a lot of fun to hear him so energized about local government and business.

Dinner at Elizabeth's was even better than I remembered from years past.  The miso glazed scallops over potatoes mashed with edamame beans was thrilling.  The portions were so large that we all skipped dessert, a rarity in my dining experience.

The bad news--that damned GPS doesn't work. 

Monday, October 26, 2009

Another farewell party


Leaving town isn't so difficult when you're lucky enough to have friends who hold good-bye parties for you.  Tonight my friends Amy Rudnick and Ben Hillman had me and a few others over for a tastilicious Moroccan chicken dinner.  Robin's delish shrimp appetizer, my parsnip puree with sauteed Brussells sprouts, and BZ's intensely intense flourless chocolate cake all contributed to a tasty evening.  Hostess Amy and guest Jonathan are smiling at the thought of all that good food.  But I think some friends are saying "Enough already.  Be gone."  Well, okay.  Tata

P.S.  My friend Steven Haas spent many hours programming my computer with the latest Garmin maps so I could download them onto the Garmin for my car.  And then I spent many hours on Sunday creating "waypoints" so I could easily get maps from here to there, wherever I was. 

Yesterday, though, when I took the Garmin to the car, it was stuck in Waukegan Illinois, and nothing I could do would let me out of there. Much gnashing of teeth.  But this morning--very very early--Steven came over to see what the problem was.  Diagnosis:  dead battery.  Hmm.  Silly me. 

Sunday, October 25, 2009

A Farewell Party


My friends Alice and George Wislocki hosted a lovely farewell dinner for me on Friday night.  They go away every January for six weeks of tramping in New Zealand, so they know full well how exciting but sometimes intimidating it is to leave home for weeks on end.  As always, I had a lovely time chez Wislocki, and Alice cooked a delicious meal, highlighted by chicken with dumplings.  Photo credits go to Jonathan Hankin.

Book Party for Maureen Howard, October 24 2009



Maureen Howard (in grey), my sometime Monterey neighbor and respected teacher, novelist and all-round intellectual just published her ninth book, The Rags of Time.  In honor of this, Annette Grant (in red), also a good friend of Maureen's, and I hosted a book party to celebrate.  About 20 people came over on a viciously rainy and windy Saturday afternoon to nibble a few goodies and listen to Maureen read a Halloween passage from her book.  She's an accomplished teacher, which was clear from the moment she began talking.  Chris Blair, a friend and neighbor of Maureen, is hobbyist photographer who could easily do it for a living.  The picture above may not be an adequate demonstration of Chris's talent, but don't blame him.  Blame my camera and the lighting.  And check out Chris's blog, blair-house.blogspot.com.  It will make you hungry.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

21C Hotel

Saturday, October 17, 2009


21C Hotel



I just learned that 21C, the art hotel in Louisville where I'm staying for two nights, has been named the 6th best hotel in the WORLD and FIRST in the U.S. by Conde Nast Traveler! I hadn't even planned to go to Louisville but when I read about the hotel on the internet a few months ago, I decided to stay there because it sounded so classy. An added bonus is that a friend who lives in Alford is an old friend of one of the owners, who booked a dinner reservation for me at the hotel's restaurant, and gave me advice on other restaurants and some cultural spots. Lucky me.

Noe Valley Park



Friday Oct 2 2009

I'm staying at the Harbor Court Hotel by the Embarcadaro on the bay. An already beautiful setting is enhanced by sensational weather, full of balm and charm, elaborated with white caps on blue waves. It's hard to beat this combination, particularly when some of the best food in the bay area takes place or is sold a nanosecond across the street.


A second day spent in the compay of young mothers and in some cases young fathers enacting their familial duties around others of their class as they swing and sway to an internal melody.

The various strands are thus: white mothers with Asian children, Asian caretakers with white children, Hispanic caretakers with white kids in tow, white mothers toting their Hispanic children, the occasional grandmother accompanying at least one of the parents. I think I saw twins of different races, but perhaps it was only a caretaker for youngsters from differet families. I've become obsessed with all the different racial and cultural combinations. So unimaginable many years ago in suburban St. Louis when my children, now parents on their own, were little ones and everyone looked the same.

Not only have the racial and social stereotypes been blasted since I was a young mother, but the equipment! Oh my god, the equipment! Strollers made to the specifications of Humvees, sturdy enough to carry the multitude of things, dozens and dozens of things, that accompany the children on their outings. Large insulated bags holding plastic boxes filled with snacks and sippy cups of all sizes, Mom's coffee in oversized mugs, hats, sunscreen, bottled water, towelettes, wash cloths, towels, dry clothes, cameras, cell phone...ooops, not just plain old cell phones but iPhones, Blackberries, and whatever brand has just succeeded those favorites. It's as if all the mothers in the Bay area are equipped and ready to organize a latter day landing at Normandy, but without the enemy at their heels. I'm exhausted watching this highly organized and sternly efficient parenting, and wondering how I ever pulled it off. But, then, perhaps I did it all wrong?

When the Discovery Museum closes its doors at 4, we leave, me far more exhausted than 2-year old Kiko. He's able to pass out as soon as his mother revs the car. I have to wait for a rest until we return to her house. Suitably revived a bit later, Debbie and I cap off a lovely day with a delicious dinner at Catch, a happenin' eatery in the Castro. Fried kalamata olives with feta cheese delish.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Today I visited a small children's park in Noe Valley with Debbie and Kiko. It was late afternoon on a beautiful autumn day. The park was crowded with young middle class children and parents. Usually mothers or sitters. Some fathers. One couple, with a crawling little girl, was in fact two fathers. What struck me most about the difference in being at an urban children's park today and being at them in NYC 10-12 years ago with my older grandchildren is cell phones. All the grownups used them, even the Guatamalan sitter pushing two children on swings. The tall good looking black father, all the blonde mothers, the Hispanic sitters--they all had cell phones and used them. A lot.